Review: Aultmore 22 Years Old 1992 73.69 Dark side eclipsed by sweet joys
Category: Speyside single malt scotch whisky
Origin: Aultmore Distillery
Bottling: Scotch Malt Whisky Society Cask 73.69
Cost: £79.80 buy from SMWS
What they say:
Date Distilled: October 1992
Volume: 750 ml
Colour: Caramelized sugar
Cask Type: Refill sherry butt
Flavour Profile: Deep, rich & dried fruits
Outturn: 620 bottles
The nose delivered savoury notes, evoking tapas bars (fino, amontillado, tortilla, old polished wood, etc.) but the dessert menu was even stronger (crème caramel, rum and raisin ice-cream, apple granny cake). More complex with water – sugared seaweed, Japanese sweet omelette, earthy hazelnut and plastic toys in the sun. The taste was essentially sweet – vanilla, amaretto, caramel, carrot cake, figs – but with a slight metallic, gamey, bittersweet edge of burnt cake and walnut. With water, its darker side (hoisin duck patrolling the farmyard in wellies) was happily dominated by the joyful sweetness of toffee, toasted marshmallows, Nutella, Dr Pepper syrup and panna cotta.
Could accompany food (Spanish, oriental, e.g.) – or maybe better after a meal, with coffee
What I say:
Thanks to Ben from Bens Whisky for organising a share of this 22 Year Old SMWS Aultmore.
Bright & refractive antique 18ct gold (6/20), medium tears with medium-fine legs
Zesty, orangey fruitiness, chalky, dry and dusty, cloying honey and syrup sweetness, oak wood, treacle, crème caramel, malty, rum, demerara sugar, molasses, a hint of bicycle inner tubes – a touch of sulphur?
Sweet vanilla essence, almonds and toasted almond, nougat, dates, coppery metallic, nutty chestnuts – freshly roasted, toffee, treacle toffee, mocha coffee/cocoa nibs, honey sweetenss but bitter too like over-roasted coffee beans.
Medium-long, toffee, rum & raisin ice cream, sweet with woodsmoke and bbq/savoury game meat
Good ex-sherry influence, not too strong but masks most of the spirit character. That Aultmore grassy/apple/malt flavour is missing. With a little water this whisky falls apart, it becomes a little more vanilla and creamier but with an over-stretched elastic band flavour in the finish again suggesting some sulphurous content.
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