Whisky Review: Mortlach 1954 Speyside Collection
Category: Speyside single malt scotch whisky
Origin: Mortlach distillery
Bottling: Gordon & MacPhail, Speyside Collection
Cost: £10,495.95 from Master of Malt
What they say:
Leading whisky specialist Gordon & MacPhail has launched an exclusive Speyside Collection, offering customers the chance to purchase six exquisite single malt Scotch whiskies from some of Scotland’s finest Speyside distilleries.
Established in 1895, the fourth-generation family business is custodian to some of the world’s oldest and most unique single malt Scotch whiskies. Allowing whisky fans the chance to savour an inimitable piece of Scotland’s liquid history, the Speyside Collection brings together 329 years of knowledge, expertise and whisky maturation.
The first release, limited-edition, Speyside Collection hosts a range of flavour profiles, from the fruity and peppery notes of Gordon & MacPhail Smith’s Glenlivet 1948 43%, to the long and slightly smoky finish of the Glen Grant 1949 40%, and the exotic fruit, sherry and crushed almonds flavours in Strathisla 1953 43%.
Showcasing whiskies from across the region, the Speyside Collection also offers Gordon & MacPhail Mortlach 1954 43%, a spicy and creamy whisky, the award winning Longmorn 1967 43%, which is bursting with warming spiciness followed by stewed fruit and citrus flavours, and Linkwood 1972 43%, with its flavours of chilli spice, banana and dark chocolate.
Since the founding of the business, Gordon & MacPhail has sent casks to distilleries throughout Scotland to be filled with new make spirit, before being matured under the custodianship of generations of the Urquhart family.
Developing relationships with distilleries across Scotland throughout the company’s history, the whiskies in Gordon & MacPhail’s Speyside Collection are uniquely labelled using the original distillery labels.
Stephen Rankin, director and a member of the fourth generation of the Urquharts, the family who own Gordon & MacPhail, said: “Four generations of our family have passed on skills and knowledge for matching spirit to quality casks and maturing whiskies for many years.
“The six vintages in the Speyside Collection are testament to our philosophy of producing high quality single malt. We hope malt whisky lovers will be able to enjoy and savour these special Speyside drams.”
The Speyside Collection is available to purchase from specialist whisky retailers at an RRP of £10,500 in the UK. Prices in overseas markets may differ due to local taxes and import duties. A limited edition of 75 Speyside Collections will be available for sale in this first release.
What I say:
Distilled at Mortlach distillery on the 27th of January 1954, matured in first fill Sherry butt #49 and bottled at 58 years old on the 20th of November 2012 at 43%.
Many thanks to Tom of Toms Whisky Reviews for sparing a little of this whisky to share with us.
Blood orange copper (13/20) Medium loose oily legs, medium-fine tears form slowly too.
Almonds, toasted and also Linseed oil/putty, nutty and sweet, reminds me of playdough, oodles of soft sweet vanilla essence and a sprinkle of cinnamon precede a sweet fruit medley with cherry, raspberry, strawberry, orange juice, dried fruits and candied peel and beeswax, with water a distinct coffee aroma arises.
Peppery with cinnamon mixed into this spicy start, rich tropical fruits, pineapple fritters in syrup, mango, papaya and passionfruit, quite oily and rich on the palate, coconut cream, milk chocolate, vanilla, raisin, hazelnut paste/cream or praline, mocha coffee, a little bitter like fibrous and gritty cocoa bean husks and coffee grounds and a hint of smoked/cured meat. With water this expression flips with the spice delivered at the end and the cocoa, and woody tannins reveal up front with some tobacco leaf too.
Peppery and drying, crystallized pineapple and ginger cubes, tobacco and cigar smoke and oaky wood spices
It has been a while since we had a classic Mortlach and what an expression to return true to form! A wisp of smoke, makes for a perfect cigar-pairing dram, full of rich and dried (cured) tropical fruits with a hint of meatiness but also some creamy vanilla in here too amongst all those delicious slightly-savoury and woody notes, more please!
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