Calvados Review: Lemorton 1980 Millésimé (Bottled 2016)
Category: Calvados Domfrontais
Origin: Didier Lemorton
Cost: €101 from Calvados Didier Lemorton
What they say:
Lemorton 1980 Millésimé (Bottled 2016). Distilled in 1980 and matured in single cask before bottling in 2016 at 36 years old.
What I say:
Located at La Baillée Fêtu near Mantilly, Lemorton Calvados is operated by Didier and his son Damien who represent the 3rd and 4th generation of distillers in the Lemorton family. Lemorton operate a traditional high-stem/low density orchard with a large number of pear trees, more suitable than apple trees, to the limestone soil conditions around the Domfront region. They produce quite possibly the finest Calvados Domfrontais, under the Appellation d’origine controlee Calvados Domfrontais must contain a minimum of 30% pear. At Lemorton they typically produce from a mixture of 70% pear and only 30% apple – lending a lighter and more elegant character to their Calvados.
Purchased at the cellar door of Lemorton Calvados Distillery, we sampled this during our visit to the Lemorton distillery and I was so taken with this expression that I decided to purchase a bottle as something fitting to celebrate the birth of my daughter earlier in 2017.
Bright copper bronze (13/20) oily medium tears and legs
Sweet, fresh orchard fruits, crisp apple and juicy pear, floral blossom and grassy hay give this expression the aroma of fresh & green, hints of fermentation, cider or perry
Medium-full bodied, crisp green apples burst out, apple skin, juicy & ripe pear, caramel, apple juice, tarte aux poire/pomme, pastries, toffee, tannic oak wood, this is thick and unctuous on the palate with a sweetness of honey and maple syrup, beeswax and wood polish
Long, sweet orchard fruits and antique oak wood
Perfection! The most complete Calvados I have sampled, beautifully balanced between fruit and oak. It is almost impossible to believe that after 36 years in oak this expression is redolent with the aroma and flavours of fruit ripening in an orchard!
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